“From Beaches to Baroque Architecture: The Diverse Delights of Chiavari, Italy”

Portofino and Cinque Terre.

The eastern shore of Italy’s Riviera, stretching from Genoa to the Tuscan frontier, is celebrated as one of the most renowned coastal regions globally, featuring well-visited resorts such as Portofino and Cinque Terre. Although there remain serene villages worth discovering, one particularly remarkable, yet lesser-known city along the Riviera is Chiavari, which warrants inclusion on your itinerary. Its charm, authenticity, and completeness as a holiday locale make it puzzling why it has not yet become a hotspot for international tourists (though we appreciate its current relative tranquility).

For those seeking a destination devoid of throngs of visitors, with abundant shorelines, diverse cultural offerings, indigenous dining establishments that do not cater to typical tourist fare, unique independent shops, and a favorable likelihood of pleasant weather during July and August, Chiavari is an ideal choice.

This historically prosperous city, which Napoleon designated as the capital of the Apennines in the early th century, has long depended on maritime trade, agriculture, and furniture manufacturing—most notably, the Chiavarina chair, commonly used at weddings and formal events, originated from this region. Following World War II, beach tourism became an additional source of income; however, it has maintained a more understated ambiance compared to more glamorous destinations.

Prolonged stays at hotels during the milder months have become increasingly popular, and many guests have managed to maintain a level of discretion regarding their chosen destination.

An architectural exterior featuring trompe l’oeil embellishments in Chiavari.

Olga Bacigalupo, whose family established and operates one of the most prominent hotels in the area, the Monte Rosa, notes that her clientele primarily consists of Italian and European visitors—a mixture of holidaymakers who have historically been attracted to Chiavari. Although the Cinque Terre and Portofino have traditionally garnered the majority of international tourists, this trend appears to be shifting. Bacigalupo highlights events such as Chiavari in Fiore, a floral festival held in May, which may contribute to this transformation.

The contemporary tourism trajectory should be navigated with care, steering clear of circumstances that may result in excessive crowds, while prioritizing cultural affairs such as jazz and theater festivals during the peak summer season.

Via Martiri

Unlike numerous tourist-heavy locales, Chiavari offers a genuine sense of connection to the city and allows for an immersion in its local rhythms through a leisurely walk along the principal thoroughfare, Via Martiri della Liberazione. This arcade-lined promenade bears a resemblance to the porticoed streets of Bologna.

The arcaded promenades of Via Martiri della Liberazione.

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In the evening, the atmosphere may be subdued, with much of the dining activity concentrated on adjacent streets such as Via Bighetti and along the coastline. However, Via Martiri emerges as the principal social hub in the morning, serving as a focal point for both shopping and casual coffee meetings. Here, the residents of Chiavari engage in their daily routines, which invariably includes a visit to the expansive open-air food market situated in Piazza Mazzini. This marketplace showcases an impressive array of fruits and vegetables, alongside a commendable variety of local cheeses and knowledgeable vendors who willingly share their expertise regarding the selection of quality products.

or asparagus. On the final weekend of the month, visitors can explore a special market situated on the historic Via Rivarola, known as Tipicamente Chiavari, which features artisanal and DOP-certified products.

The food market located in Piazza Mazzini.
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A Coastal Town as Well

The beaches overlook the Gulf of Tigullio.

At PM, Via Martiri experiences a lull as numerous shops temporarily close for an hour or more, reflecting the community’s adherence to traditional practices and routines even during peak tourist season. Many residents of Chiavari retreat home for lunch, while the younger demographic tends to gather at local bars or cafés for an extended break.

Conclusion

In conclusion, Via Martiri stands as the vibrant heart of Chiavari, where the morning bustle creates a lively atmosphere that fosters community and connection among residents. As the sun rises over the adjacent streets and the coastal views beckon, locals gather not only to shop but also to savor the simple pleasure of coffee with friends. The open-air food market in Piazza Mazzini further enriches this social tapestry, offering fresh produce and local delicacies that reflect the region’s culinary heritage. Whether you’re a long-time resident or a curious visitor, a stroll down Via Martiri and a visit to the marketplace is an experience that encapsulates the essence of Chiavari—a blend of tradition, taste, and togetherness.